Someone in the Seattle restaurant business recently told me that by the time this economic mess is over, I'll be surprised at some of the big names in Seattle cuisine that don't make it. I've already seen more than a handful fold - some with not too much surprise - but this one really makes me sad.
I will forever remember your Cornhusker Manhattan with candied bacon garnish, your mini lamb burgers, and your fun bar atmosphere with cool art and good service.
R.I.P. Moxie
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Cantinetta Can't Get Betta
I've always thought that Seattle had a lot of really good Italian food for some strange reason...maybe my taste just happens to lean more towards Italian flavor (now that I think about it, most of my favs in New Orleans and Austin involve some variation of Italian). Or maybe it's just a coincidence.

Anyway, I have a new favorite Italian joint in Seattle (for the time being). Cantinetta opened a few months ago in the Wallingford neighborhood. We've already been twice, and WOW - thinking about when I can go back already.


Creative menu favorites: Mussels Putanesca with Anchovies, Avocado Grapefruit and Olive salad with Chili - just as tasty as it is beautiful and odd, Grilled Pancetta-wrapped Dates crispy with a bit of char and balsamic, homemade Tagliatelle with Rabbit (or Ox Tail), Chantrelle Risotto - self-explanatory, Pasta Bolognese for a bit more tradition, and finally, Mascarpone-filled Bombolini with citrus sugar (fancy donut holes!). We more-or-less got the same things both visits - if it ain't broke don't fix it.
A savvy someone knew what they were doing with this place (not surprised to learn that he has a history with Via Tribunali). It's a collection of many good ideas stored up patiently over time, perfectly executed. On top of that, the staff is well-organized, knowledgeable and barely there, in the good kind of way. Bueno.


Anyway, I have a new favorite Italian joint in Seattle (for the time being). Cantinetta opened a few months ago in the Wallingford neighborhood. We've already been twice, and WOW - thinking about when I can go back already.

Wonderful little restaurant on the up-scale side of neighborhoody and definitely exceeding the expectations of the neighborhoody label. Great mix of the new and the old - tall exposed wood ceilings and rustic iron chandeliers with candlelight complemented by the clean-lines of a suspended walnut and steel wine shelf and a concrete bar. It's in a corner-store space with lots of giant wood windows that constantly remind you of it's nestled neighborhood proximity. You kind of feel a little guilty knowing that while you're enjoying the wonderment of Cantinetta's wine list, pasta menu and ambiance, adjacent homeowners could be watching you from their lonely dining room table eating their Lean Cuisine.

Creative menu favorites: Mussels Putanesca with Anchovies, Avocado Grapefruit and Olive salad with Chili - just as tasty as it is beautiful and odd, Grilled Pancetta-wrapped Dates crispy with a bit of char and balsamic, homemade Tagliatelle with Rabbit (or Ox Tail), Chantrelle Risotto - self-explanatory, Pasta Bolognese for a bit more tradition, and finally, Mascarpone-filled Bombolini with citrus sugar (fancy donut holes!). We more-or-less got the same things both visits - if it ain't broke don't fix it.
A savvy someone knew what they were doing with this place (not surprised to learn that he has a history with Via Tribunali). It's a collection of many good ideas stored up patiently over time, perfectly executed. On top of that, the staff is well-organized, knowledgeable and barely there, in the good kind of way. Bueno.

P.S. If you're curious (I was), a cantinetta is apparently a small wine cellar where the typical Italian family stores their wine. Over time, the cantinetta would sometimes turn into a small shop selling, among other things, the family's wine label. Kinda gives you the same warm and fuzzy feeling as their homemade pasta...
Friday, January 23, 2009
Blown Away By Monsoon
I have been a negligent blogger, buds, and I'm sorry. It's been a crazy few months - I was in Costa Rica, Nebraska, Leavenworth WA, and then...Ozzy, our golden retriever puppy, came home shortly after the New Year.
I am a proud Mama. But I'm still hungry, so....

I followed with organic fried eggs with nem nuong (grilled pork + shrimp sausage), with a side of sweet corn. Friends went with the Vietnamese equivalent to 'steak and eggs', and a side of pork belly, perfectly prepared. We all shared everything, including a chantrelle scramble. What I remember most is the freshness and the flavor of it all. Overwhelming.
I am definitely no authority on Vietnamese cuisine, but in my opinion Monsoon nailed it. I've since brought visiting family here (hand-selected no doubt) for a redo of the above menu, and everything was as I remember, and they raved much the same. I will be back, maybe for dinner next time.
Wikipedia says that a monsoon is a 'seasonal prevailing wind that lasts for several months'. So that's why they named it that! Because it's been months since I've been and I'm STILL thinking about this meal!
I discovered Monsoon last summer when some well-connected culinarian friends visited Seattle and instead of me playing the typical tour guide and taking them to my favorites carefully hand-picked just for them, they took me. I rode in the back seat, and just went with the flow to all the must-dos they had heard about from their respected food fare friends. This required quite a bit of trust on my part - I mean, you couldn't have done this with just anybody. But I have to admit it was amazing. I was like a tourist in my own city, and ironically we ended up a lot of places I hadn't done. Monsoon, Pig Iron BBQ in the middle of Industrial-nowhere Seattle, West Seattle's Beato (sadly not the only place to fall victim to this stellar economy), and How To Cook A Wolf...which is a whole 'nother story. I came away with a lot of new favorites and checked a lot off of my list, but Monsoon was my most cherished new find.

This is what I remember. We went for a late brunch on a beautiful mid-summer Sunday. We sat at a 4-top in their open-air dining room, because there were no tables available on the patio. We started with generously-poured mimosas in well-sized glasses. Had to have the Dim Sum appetizer assortment of pork buns, sticky rice, shrimp & chive wontons and dumplings all rightfully in their bamboo baskets.
I followed with organic fried eggs with nem nuong (grilled pork + shrimp sausage), with a side of sweet corn. Friends went with the Vietnamese equivalent to 'steak and eggs', and a side of pork belly, perfectly prepared. We all shared everything, including a chantrelle scramble. What I remember most is the freshness and the flavor of it all. Overwhelming.I am definitely no authority on Vietnamese cuisine, but in my opinion Monsoon nailed it. I've since brought visiting family here (hand-selected no doubt) for a redo of the above menu, and everything was as I remember, and they raved much the same. I will be back, maybe for dinner next time.
This week, I've got a dinner date with a girlfriend (before Etta James!) at Bambuza, another Vietnamese place I've been wanting to try. I'm looking forward to the comparison but have a feeling that I may be forever spoiled with Monsoon. But, I've made a mental note to remember, you never know what you're going to find riding in the back seat...
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