R.I.P. Moxie

Someone in the Seattle restaurant business recently told me that by the time this economic mess is over, I'll be surprised at some of the big names in Seattle cuisine that don't make it. I've already seen more than a handful fold - some with not too much surprise - but this one really makes me sad.

I will forever remember your Cornhusker Manhattan with candied bacon garnish, your mini lamb burgers, and your fun bar atmosphere with cool art and good service.

R.I.P. Moxie

Cantinetta Can't Get Betta

I've always thought that Seattle had a lot of really good Italian food for some strange reason...maybe my taste just happens to lean more towards Italian flavor (now that I think about it, most of my favs in New Orleans and Austin involve some variation of Italian). Or maybe it's just a coincidence.

Anyway, I have a new favorite Italian joint in Seattle (for the time being). Cantinetta opened a few months ago in the Wallingford neighborhood. We've already been twice, and WOW - thinking about when I can go back already.

Wonderful little restaurant on the up-scale side of neighborhoody and definitely exceeding the expectations of the neighborhoody label. Great mix of the new and the old - tall exposed wood ceilings and rustic iron chandeliers with candlelight complemented by the clean-lines of a suspended walnut and steel wine shelf and a concrete bar. It's in a corner-store space with lots of giant wood windows that constantly remind you of it's nestled neighborhood proximity. You kind of feel a little guilty knowing that while you're enjoying the wonderment of Cantinetta's wine list, pasta menu and ambiance, adjacent homeowners could be watching you from their lonely dining room table eating their Lean Cuisine.

Creative menu favorites: Mussels Putanesca with Anchovies, Avocado Grapefruit and Olive salad with Chili - just as tasty as it is beautiful and odd, Grilled Pancetta-wrapped Dates crispy with a bit of char and balsamic, homemade Tagliatelle with Rabbit (or Ox Tail), Chantrelle Risotto - self-explanatory, Pasta Bolognese for a bit more tradition, and finally, Mascarpone-filled Bombolini with citrus sugar (fancy donut holes!). We more-or-less got the same things both visits - if it ain't broke don't fix it.

A savvy someone knew what they were doing with this place (not surprised to learn that he has a history with Via Tribunali). It's a collection of many good ideas stored up patiently over time, perfectly executed. On top of that, the staff is well-organized, knowledgeable and barely there, in the good kind of way. Bueno.

P.S. If you're curious (I was), a cantinetta is apparently a small wine cellar where the typical Italian family stores their wine. Over time, the cantinetta would sometimes turn into a small shop selling, among other things, the family's wine label. Kinda gives you the same warm and fuzzy feeling as their homemade pasta...

Blown Away By Monsoon

I have been a negligent blogger, buds, and I'm sorry. It's been a crazy few months - I was in Costa Rica, Nebraska, Leavenworth WA, and then...Ozzy, our golden retriever puppy, came home shortly after the New Year.

I am a proud Mama. But I'm still hungry, so....

Wikipedia says that a monsoon is a 'seasonal prevailing wind that lasts for several months'. So that's why they named it that! Because it's been months since I've been and I'm STILL thinking about this meal!

I discovered Monsoon last summer when some well-connected culinarian friends visited Seattle and instead of me playing the typical tour guide and taking them to my favorites carefully hand-picked just for them, they took me. I rode in the back seat, and just went with the flow to all the must-dos they had heard about from their respected food fare friends. This required quite a bit of trust on my part - I mean, you couldn't have done this with just anybody. But I have to admit it was amazing. I was like a tourist in my own city, and ironically we ended up a lot of places I hadn't done. Monsoon, Pig Iron BBQ in the middle of Industrial-nowhere Seattle, West Seattle's Beato (sadly not the only place to fall victim to this stellar economy), and How To Cook A Wolf...which is a whole 'nother story. I came away with a lot of new favorites and checked a lot off of my list, but Monsoon was my most cherished new find.

This is what I remember. We went for a late brunch on a beautiful mid-summer Sunday. We sat at a 4-top in their open-air dining room, because there were no tables available on the patio. We started with generously-poured mimosas in well-sized glasses. Had to have the Dim Sum appetizer assortment of pork buns, sticky rice, shrimp & chive wontons and dumplings all rightfully in their bamboo baskets.

I followed with organic fried eggs with nem nuong (grilled pork + shrimp sausage), with a side of sweet corn. Friends went with the Vietnamese equivalent to 'steak and eggs', and a side of pork belly, perfectly prepared. We all shared everything, including a chantrelle scramble. What I remember most is the freshness and the flavor of it all. Overwhelming.

I am definitely no authority on Vietnamese cuisine, but in my opinion Monsoon nailed it. I've since brought visiting family here (hand-selected no doubt) for a redo of the above menu, and everything was as I remember, and they raved much the same. I will be back, maybe for dinner next time.

This week, I've got a dinner date with a girlfriend (before Etta James!) at Bambuza, another Vietnamese place I've been wanting to try. I'm looking forward to the comparison but have a feeling that I may be forever spoiled with Monsoon. But, I've made a mental note to remember, you never know what you're going to find riding in the back seat...

New Orleans Top 10 (and then some)

A friend of mine and fellow-foodie recently posed a question to me (admittedly on Facebook), so I'm taking the liberty (and opportunity) to make our drool-fest public. I haven't posted about New Orleans yet (because I haven't been home since I started blogging!) I've been chomping at the bit and this pretty much covers it.

"Say you were touring with guests in the city. What ten restaurants would you take them to (3 fancy, 3 casual but nice, 3 poboy or cheap restaurants, and 1 any category restaurants)?" - Scott Crawford

My responses were as follows:

3 Fancy: Broussard's, Antoine's, Dick & Jenny's

Runners' up (because I just can't help myself): Emeril's NOLA, Breakfast at Brennan's, Rib Room, Le Parvenu in Rivertown

3 Mid-Fancy: Pascal's Manale for BBQ Shrimp, Drago's for the BBQ Oysters (only for the oysters and a cocktail ) then head to Clancy's for a soft-shell crab and a bottle of wine

Runners' up: Mandina's, Cafe Rani, Irene's, Upperline

3 Low-on-the-Fancy: Parasol's for a roast beef poboy, Uglesich's (open again?!), a sliced-in half hotdog on a hamburger bun with grated cheddar cheese at Bud's Broiler

Runners' up: Bobby's po-boys in River Ridge, Port-of-Call, Camellia Grill, The River Shack, Cooter Brown's, and of course, Brie Oysters at the Shimmy Shack in The Ridge, my Nanny's Turtle Soup...

Because NOLA restaurant favs are a very personal thing, here are mutual friend Ginger's picks:

3 fancy: I can't pick just three but here's some off the top of my head. I'd try Bistro Daisy again. Lilette. Haven't been in a few years but I also always really liked Peristyle. Commander's. Depending on who I was eating with, maybe Galatoire's.

3 casual but nice: Jacques-Imo's, Crepe Nanou, maybe Cafe Degas. And not because it's necessarily awesome food but more for sentimentality I might take them to Venezia's. That might be more for me than my guests though.

3 cheap eats: Mona's Middle Eastern (preferably the Banks St. location). Felix's for turtle soup and poboy. And maybe Liuzza's, or if they were interested in muffulatta then maybe Cafe Maspero. Maspero's good for visitors since visitors always want to go to the quarter anyway.

Finally, Scott's responses to his own posing:

Upper class:
1. Stella! Best restaurant in the city, aka the world, as long as you stay away from the fish and chips and shark fin soup.
2. Brigsten's. Often forgotten, but never overrated.
3. Gotta go Galatoire's.

Upper-middle:
1. Clancy's. Katie knows the truth about the softshell.
2. MiLa. Hidden treasure downtown.
3. Commander's Palace for lunch. They used to have a 3 course set lunch for $14. It has gone up in price, but it's still one of the better deals in town.

Middle Lower:
1. Impastato's. Best pasta I've had. Better than anything I had in NY or Italy. $25 for 5 course fixed meal.
2. Maple Street Cafe. Uptown could use a few more places like this.
3. Crazy Johnnie's. Cheaper than a grocery store. Better than Ruth's Chris.

Working Class:
1. Parkway Bakery. Favorite poboy spot for taste and atmosphere.
2. Central City Grocery. Best muffaletta anywhere.
3. Hobnobber's. Best roast beef poboy I've had.

Crazy, but I feel like we still haven't even scratched the surface (post your NOLA favs in my comments!). Amazing that there's not much overlap, though I guess favorites are largely influenced by where you grew up and where ya-mamma-an-dem ate. Although I still felt the urge to yell 'Amen' with almost everyone of their picks...

Canlis Bliss

I'm no high-roller, but being from New Orleans my fine-dining restaurant standards are admittedly high. My father has made sure of this. I know how good service can be, and I know that it should be a given, a non-negotiable. I know how good food can be too. In fact, just 'good' is not good enough. The food, like the service, must be excellent, perfect, memorable. If either falls short, a restaurant cannot be considered elite. Exceptional atmosphere comes in a close third, but food and service tie for most critical in my book.

Seattle has a viable competitor in Canlis. I've been twice now (minimum required for fair judgement) and their consistency champions their excellence. This is a family-owned, family-run restaurant that has been around since 1950, and in the restaurant business that's a testament. It is evident in the architecture. I liken it to 'Brady Bunch' style: you know, split levels, lots of browns, blacks and white, stacked stone and wood and blackened iron, very planer elements, expansive glass. It's timeless. Add to that contemporary fixtures, modern furnishings, oh and then there's the menu...

"Cooking is like love – it should be entered into with abandon or not at all." -Canlis website

I will be brief about the food, because duh, it's amazing. There are the 'anchor' menu items so enduring that they've taken the name: the Peter Canlis prawns with vermouth, garlic, red chilies, and lime. The Canlis Salad of romaine, bacon, mint and egg is touted as one of the most famous salads in America. Pacific NW staples of halibut and salmon, perfectly prepared with hearts of palm and truffle sweet corn cream, respectively. Lamb chops, beef tenderloin, lobster, a repertoire expected by most any fine diner, are complemented by choices like truffle fries, red beet and goat cheese salad, and yellow tail shashimi, keeping this menu fresh and relevant. The food is exceptional, but really it's the grander experience that makes this place sing.

Canlis is like your hip grandmother. Classically styled, but attuned to the contemporary as well. Imagine my surprise when I hear the guy at the Steinway in the corner rocking Apologize by my current fav One Republic (Tuesday night at the Paramount in Seattle, can't wait). This is a band who did a collaboration with a guy named Timbaland and whose music is in the Hip-Hop genre in iTunes, people. And they were playing it at Canlis! They obviously get it (as opposed to the Republicans who need to get with it, but that's another story). Their one big unwavering gun is requiring that men wear a sport coat, a tradition that is all but extinct these days in a world that is diminishing of chivalry and respect.

"Consistently excellent. Food that makes you smile. Time deliciously spent." -Canlis website

Attention to every detail, from the architecture and artwork, to the attentive waiter, to the after dinner drink menu, dining at Canlis is as personal as dining in someone's home. And finally, let's talk about the view.

'Nuff said. Now, if only you can afford it...

i Napoletani

Rather than be 'that girl', I have decided to only blog about positive dining experiences, and so I have been delayed for a few weeks with a few not-so-blogworthy dines, but I have to report about our tried and true Seattle pizza place Via Tribunali.

I have an ongoing/ever-changing 'visitor list' of Seattle restaurants for out-of-town guests, or if I am recommending restaurants for someone...Via Tribunali always makes the list (the rest to follow in an upcoming blog, so stay tuned). It is the perfect trifecta of atmosphere, food and price, a rarity in Seattle or really any city. It's also a true testament to the place that it's become one of our staple everyday-weeknight joints to grab casual dinner and drinks with friends. We get quite a lot of guests, but this place is so great, sometimes we just can't wait that long between visits.

The original location in Capitol Hill is my favorite. It's in an old building with tall wood ceilings, hefty beams and exposed brick walls (the architect in me speaking). The space is overall dimly lit with candlelight from these gorgeous blown glass lantern pendants over the bar and stained glass decor that create this sort of rustic ecclesiastical romantic feel. Sitting in the big wooden high-back booths in the back, not only can you get a better view of the studly pizza-tossers, but you feel like you are in your own little world amidst the loud, bustling conversations and goings-on of a busy restaurant in action. (We've recently been to their new location in Queen Anne - they have done a good job of trying to create a similar atmosphere here, but trading brick for drywall and candle light for dimmable incandescents, it's just not the same - with the exception of the food).

After Jeff's tall order of Peroni (in the special glass shown here) and house-Italian-wine-by-the-glass, we always start with the Misto Salumi aka the 'meat plate' - thinly sliced prosciutto, salami, fresh green olives and chunks of fresh Grana cheese (similar to Parmesan). Magnifica!

Our favorite pies are the Margherita (self-explanatory), the Funghi (cause Jeff's a fun guy - ha!), the Lasagna (ricotta and prosciutto with pomodoro sauce), and the Salsiccia (basil and Italian sausge with pomodoro sauce). Delizioco! They even have these special pizza scissors to cut the pies into large wedges!

So, this is true Neapolitan pizza (board certified no doubt) - extremely thin, hand-tossed crust baked in their signature right-of-the-boat-from-Naples mosaic-tiled mega wood-burning brick oven that makes it nice and toasty, perfectly lightly charred in places like it was cooked on a camp fire. The website indicates that the bricks in this oven were made from the ashes of freaking Mt. Vesuvius!, which apparently allows the oven to achieve higher temperatures than that of lesser ovens.

People, it doesn't get more authentic Neapolitan than this, in Seattle that is.

Moxie to the rescue

Anyone who knows me knows that I will never be known for my punctuality. Friday night I was not the only one running behind schedule. The plan was to meet Alysa at 6:30 at Moxie to grab a bite to eat and glass of wine before attending Pacific NW Ballet's All Tharp program at 7:30. Alysa is my token cultural-event buddy as she is typically willing (cultural events are a hard sell these days), and Moxie is our favorite pre-ballet spot in lower Queen Anne as it is just blocks from McCaw Hall where PNB performs.

Well, when I was the first to arrive at 6:45, I knew I had to move quickly. I snagged a bar table for 2, and soon the bar tender/server arrived to take my drink order. I explained the situation, and indicated that I was going to order not only drinks for 2, but our food as well to try to make the 7:30 show. A nod indicated he was on board. Not to worry.

First things first: wine-by-the-glass. Expecting to have to debate over which one to order, I was thrilled to see Hedges CMS Red 2005 blend. Not only a know quantity, but a fabulous full (affordable) red! 2 glasses please. Check. Next, food. I was looking for a few things to share, a nice combo of meat, veggie, cheese...mini steak frites? baby greens salad? clams? (Alysa and I usually have similar tastes but you never know). The server must have sensed my deliberation, and boldly recommended the gnocchi, their new vegetarian dish which he really liked and said was easy to split. I typically don't go for vegetarian, but in a rush, I went with it and the greens salad with Gorgonzola & candied walnuts.

The handsome waiter did not disappoint (the handsome part being a bonus). He had the wine at the table within minutes, and Alysa soon arrived, relieved to not have to make any decisions. We barely had time to hug and explain to each other where we'd parked when our food arrived. So far so good. The salad was great - but really, how can you mess up green salad with Gorgonzola and walnuts? Pomegranate seeds added a nice, unexpected touch. The moment of truth: The gnocchi. Awesome. The gnocchis themselves were drier than your typical Italian gnocchi, but it worked well with the dish - an overall sweet flavor of roasted corn and kale, pine nuts and finely-grated sharp, dry cheese (I'm guessing Asiago) lightly mixed with olive oil. The roasted corn kernels made the dish! Bravo.

Alysa and I finished each and every bite, split the wonderfully-affordable bill, and made it into our seats at McCaw as they were flashing the warning lights. Moxie nailed it, and we gave Tharp a Bravo as well.